Living in the White Mountains
Featured Articles Of The Arizona White Mountain Region Get Our NewsletterPhotography by Jonathan Austen
Discover the Timeless Charm of Greer Arizona
Discover the Timeless Charm of Greer Arizona:
A Perfect Mountain Getaway
Rough, frontier roads and the Atlantic & Pacific Railroad brought hardy pioneering families to the northern Arizona Territory in the early 1880s. Settlers like Amberian Englevason, Americus Vespucious Greer, and Ellis Whitney Wiltbank arrived in this lovely but remote mountain valley to build homes, establish farms, and build a sawmill where the East and West forks of the Little Colorado River meet.
Originally known as Lee Valley, the village of Greer Arizona got its first one-room schoolhouse in 1897 and a post office a year later.
Throughout the years, the picturesque White Mountain outpost of Greer Arizona attracted many high-profile guests, including legendary movie star John Wayne, western novelists Zane Grey and James Willard Schultz, engineer and writer Stewart Edward White, author Mary Roberts Rinehart, and Presidents Teddy Roosevelt and Herbert Hoover.
In fact, during his stay, President Hoover gifted local Molly Butler—known affectionately as the “Grandmother of Greer”—with the White House Cookbook, from which she derived her now-famous Prime Rib recipe.
Tourism continued to flourish in Greer as locals served up mouthwatering meals, offered comfortable rooms and cabins for visitors, and shared their love and knowledge of the land, wildlife, and livestock. Together they helped city folks unwind in the cool mountain air and enjoy all that Greer offers (then and now)– hiking to the top of Mt. Baldy, horseback riding through the pines and aspens, fishing on the Little Colorado River, swimming in the lakes, stargazing, throwing horseshoes, skiing, sledding, snuggling by the fire, or shopping at local antique and gift shops.
Slowly, the modern world found its way to this small mountain village. Electricity reached Greer in the 1950s, and over the years, other modern “amenities”—like telephones, a sewer system, a fire department, and paved highways—eventually followed, making life easier for the village’s 170 full-time residents. Satellite TV and Internet service created greater connectivity with the outside world, but the things that people love most about Greer—the natural beauty, the community spirit, and laid-back pace—happily remain to this day.
The road into Greer still ends at Government Springs, where residents and visitors alike set out on hiking trails or drop a line in the river to catch trout.
There are no chain stores or restaurants, only charming locally-owned shops and award-winning mom-and-pop eateries and historic dining establishments serving hearty, mouthwatering frontier cuisine. Folks from Phoenix and Tucson come back every summer to escape triple-digit temps and play in the great outdoors. Nature lovers, photographers, hunters, and skiers return faithfully year after year to play and test their skills amidst a backdrop of stunning fall foliage and winter wonderland.
The Greer area has been designated as one of the best places in the world for stargazing due to the absence of city lights, clear skies, and high altitude. Its comfortable climate also makes it a wonderful place to sit on your front porch with a blanket and a cup of hot cocoa, admiring the peaceful stars resting overhead on cool evenings.
In 1979, the town of Greer celebrated its 100-year anniversary with a three-day extravaganza of events, including a parade, fishing derby, wagon rides, barn dance, and barbecue. The event drew in 2,000 people and was so successful that the town created Greer Days, an annual event that continues this tradition with those fun activities and many more, making it a delightful time to check out.
Molly Butler Lodge: A Historical Haven In Greer Arizona
Molly Butler Lodge, which officially opened in 1910, two years before statehood, is the oldest continually operating lodge in Arizona. And get this: John Wayne slept here. Teddy Roosevelt, Herbert Hoover, and Zane Grey also bunked with Molly and family, alongside legions of frontiersmen who came to the White Mountains to hunt, trap, and fish in the early 1900s.
Back in the day, the tiny Mormon settlement (later known as Greer Arizona) in which the Butlers lived offered pristine woodlands, verdant meadows, and the Little Colorado River, which teemed with trout. But the town offered little in the way of creature comforts, so visitors agreed to do chores around John and Molly Butler’s homestead in exchange for a hot meal and a roof over their heads. In 1910, Molly’s enterprising daughter, Hannah, suggested the family start charging visitors 25 cents per meal. The Butler Lodge was born.
Molly passed away in the 1960s, and Hannah built an updated but still rustic structure on the site of the original family home a decade later, creating two dining rooms, a bar, a cozy fireplace-furnished anteroom, and four small guest rooms. She renamed the business Molly Butler Lodge.
The Lost Resorts, Greer Arizona:
A Barn with a Story
If you thought eBay was just for buying clothes, jewelry, and beauty products, you would be wrong. Apparently, you can also buy a 200-year-old barn.
That’s right.
The Lost Resorts’ crown jewel of the property is a 200-year-old barn formerly located in Bath, Maine, purchased through eBay. It was in rough condition, but the talented construction crew at Lawson disassembled it and moved it to Greer Arizona piece by piece like “Lincoln Logs.” The roofing is reclaimed from Montana as well as the large floor cut at Glacier National Park. And the final result is stunning.
The Red Setter:
Riverside Retreat In Greer Arizona
Red Setter, Arizona’s Riverside Retreat—originally known as The Red Setter Inn & Cottages—was first conceived in 1990 by Jim Sankey and his partner, Ken Conant. At the time, Jim and Ken were actually living in California, working in corporate America. The two men had planned to open a bed and breakfast in the Pacific Northwest someday, but a chance visit to Greer changed their minds. So in 1993, when Jim was offered an early retirement package from his employer, the couple decided it was time to go live their dream—in the village of Greer Arizona.
Lodge pole pine and spruce from Colorado were used extensively in the construction of the Inn, situated on the south end of the little mountain valley. Each log was carefully selected and hand-hewn to ensure authenticity. The chinking between the logs took over three months to apply and was done by Jim and Ken themselves! Before long, the two saw their dreams into reality; their picture-perfect Inn opened in 1995.
Because the innkeepers lived on the property, rates included a full breakfast for guests as well as sack picnic lunches and complimentary afternoon tea, coffee, and snacks. In fact, this attentive full-service approach earned the two some pretty prestigious awards and accolades over the years. Fodor’s, the pre-eminent publisher of travel guides, named the Inn among its Top 10 Choice Hotels for 2006—that’s top 10 in the world.
In 2007, when Jim and Ken were ready for the next chapter of their life together, Greer Lodge acquired The Red Setter Inn & Cottages and continued to host guests from all over the world there. Then, in January 2013, Greer Lodge suddenly closed. Shortly after, in June of 2013, long-time Greer property owner Ramey Peru purchased the beloved Inn.
Determined to update, restore, and re-open this uniquely special Arizona vacation destination, Peru and his family have worked tirelessly to make the aptly renamed spot—Red Setter, Arizona’s Riverside Retreat—ready for its next chapter. Much care and attention have been invested to ensure that those who now visit will be delighted by everything this special place has to offer—both inside and out—while enjoying every comfort and making memories to last a lifetime!
Cornerstones of Freedom:
A Tribute to Liberty In Greer Arizona
Cornerstones of Freedom symbolizes the foundation upon which the building of human liberty has been erected under the all-seeing eye of God. Guided by the twin figures of liberty and justice, the greatest documents of freedom in modern history are immortalized for all posterity. England’s Magna Carta, America’s Declaration of Independence, Constitution, and Bill of Rights all affirm the inalienable God-given rights of mankind.
These documents attest to the indisputable fact that governments are instituted among men for the sole purpose of protecting such pre-existing rights of liberties of the people in order to assure the common good of all. Rights derive from God, not from governments. Any attempts to convert rights to privileges place Liberty and Justice either subject to the fickle whim of political expediency or within the iron grip of tyranny.
“Those who give up essential Liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither Liberty nor Safety” – Benjamin Franklin
“Cornerstones of Freedom” attests to this community’s determination to be ever vigilant in the protection of our God-given Rights and Liberties against all enemies, foreign and domestic.” -“We the People” of Greer, Arizona
Donated by The Human Liberty Foundation
James and Linda Muir 4, July 2005
The Essence of Greer Arizona
As you explore Greer, you will find a town rich in history and community spirit. In the off-season, there are just over 50 full-time residents, but Greer retains its charm and hospitality.
The road into Greer still ends at Government Springs, where residents and visitors alike set out on hiking trails or drop a line in the river to catch trout. The absence of chain stores and the presence of charming, locally-owned shops and historic dining establishments preserve the village’s unique character. Greer continues to be a sanctuary for those seeking to escape the hustle and bustle of city life, offering a blend of natural beauty, rich history, and genuine hospitality that leaves a lasting impression on all who visit.
See You at the Next Stop
Thank you for taking this ride through Greer Arizona. Stay tuned for more explorations of life in the White Mountains, where I bring you the real moments of humanity and the quiet details of life that make each place unique. See you at the next stop.
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